Riviera

RIVIERA REEF DREAMING

Ian Reynolds home from the tropical paradise that is PNG.

The elder statesman of long range cruising and loyal Riviera owner, Ian Reynolds has just returned from another incredible and inspiring voyage, a month-long sojourn aboard ‘Investigator V’ in Papua New Guinea for the 2nd annual Louisiades Rally.

Together with his friend of 50 years, Bill Feutrill, and long time friend Keith Hanson, Ian took his Riviera 56 Enclosed Flybridge from the Gold Coast to Yorkeys Knob and then on to PNG – a total of 1380 nautical miles (2555kms), travelling 520 nautical miles at the longest stretch.

At 81 years of age, Ian found the trip “a walk in the park”, blessed with good weather, superb company and the constant delight of discovery in a region few powerboat owners experience.

Investigator V was the first powerboat to take part in the event, organised by EcoSustainAbility with the aim of exploring the idyllic cruising grounds of PNG, learning about the local people, and engaging with their customs and culture.

The Louisiades is a chain of islands lying 100 nautical miles east of mainland Papua New Guineas. It comprises sand cays, lagoon reefs, coral reefs and continental islands. The islands are spectacular and provide many safe anchorages and contact with fascinating tribal groups.

While the 28 other Rally participants initially viewed Investigator V with a degree of derision, this gradually turned to envy for the Riviera’s mod cons – the espresso machine for lattes on tap and the air-conditioning in the sweltering tropical heat.

“There was a bit of friction there at first, when they wondered what we were doing there. But they got used to us and we did our best to fit in,” said Ian.

It helped that Investigator V hosted a few onboard receptions where the anecdotes and Johnny Walker flowed freely. Admiration grew and eventually, so did the unique maritime camaraderie that comes from shared experiences.

“It was truly memorable and remarkable,” says Ian. “The native people are warm, kind, extremely interested in our ways and grateful for the contact. The people we met on the Rally came from all around Australia and were adventurous types, with lots of yarns.”

The local people and many of the yachties were grateful for Investigator V’s desalination capacity, since fresh water is in short supply. “It’s really a case of ‘water, water, everywhere, nor any drop to drink,” quipped Ian, quoting the Ancient Mariner. “Natives drink mostly coconut milk so they were lining up to fill anything and everything with fresh water.”

Ian’s interest in PNG had been piqued on his previous voyage, the circumnavigation of Australia he and his mates undertook in 2008. “When we passed through the Torres Strait, I thought it would be great to go back and explore that area. We were in Yorkeys Knob refuelling and I spotted a promotional flyer for the 2009 Louisiades Rally, so I tucked it in my pocket and called the organiser to see if we could come along. He said he didn’t see why not, and so, we got ready, packed plenty of things to trade with the local people, and headed up north.”

Ian’s Riviera was previously known as Investigator 4, but travel to PNG required an international registration “Official Number” and that name was taken – hence the numeric change.

As well as being a source of great interest, as they island hopped, Ian’s Riv made numerous fishing expeditions with four or five native people at a time. The kids too were enamoured with the white fellas and their antics, hosts of “The Billy Bass Show” wherever they pulled up. “We had the kids in stitches,” recalls Keith. “With a battery powered dancing fish, lollies, sparklers and balloons.

“All the locals loved being on the boat,” he continues. “And they were keen on trading fruit, crayfish and whatever they had for batteries, books, clothes, medicines, generator invertors. There’s no industry there, so there’s no way of making money to buy these things. The locals rely on visitors – or ‘dim dim’ as we’re known – to bring them up.”

Investigator V’s crew enjoyed the superb fishing in the region – dining on grouper, spangled and red emperor, wahoo and coral trout – although Keith’s preference for red meat meant a well-stocked freezer full of sausages, lamb and eye fillet.

Diving too is superb in PNG. “The reefs and coral formations, as well as World War II wrecks are legendary around the world,” says Ian. “It’s a paradise.”

Guy Chester concurs. Based at Yorkeys Knob, Rally organiser and intrepid sailor of over 35 years experience, Guy says the aim of the Rally is “to have fun and leave the places and people in a better state than when we arrived”.

“We want our visit to benefit the local community. The Rally pays its way with cultural activities and events in each village ranging from a skull cave visit, traditional canoe regatta, barbeque, sing sing, river cruise in traditional boats, all involving cash payments to the village which will go towards that community.

“They honestly have nothing. The Rally provides cash and goods for the local hospitals, including asthma nebulisers, blood typing equipment, linen and other items. All participants take their own goods for trade and donation as well, such as clothes, school supplies, magazines, books, fishing equipment and tools.”

Unique to the region is the reliance on the custom of trading. As Guy describes: “Villagers paddle their canoes out to offer fruit and vegetables, others provide lobster and fish or handicrafts on offer, from baskets to carvings to shell necklaces. Trade varies from an equitable trade to some gifting in the arrangement. The process involves subtleties of making sure the seller thinks your trade is fair. It’s important to be friendly with all, firm when it’s required – like you’re tired of trading, or don’t want to get up at 6 am to trade – but always polite and respectful.”

The first Rally in 2008 attracted 17 boats, solely sail, and this year involved 18, including Investigator V. According to Guy, powerboats add another dimension to the Rally and he would welcome more. “There’s no issue of power or sail. My boat is essentially a powerboat with a sail on it,” he says of his 52ft catamaran that comes complete with a set of turbos. “Traditionally it’s the sailboats that can make the longer passages. But we arrange larger quantities of bulk fuel, shipped in to Misima, to ensure powerboats are well provided for. We’d love more powerboats to make the trip with us and share something that’s unique the worldover.”

Powerboat owners who make the journey can expect dizzying panoramas and seascapes, which Guy attests cover every different type of Pacific environment. “There are continental islands, coral keys, huge cliffs and grottos, mangrove creeks, waterfalls, reefs and deep, safe water that’s easy to navigate. Every anchorage is a completely different place.”

Another virtue is the huge reef surrounding the Louisiades group, which protects boats from oceanic swell. “As well as that, there are no issues at all with security. The people are very welcoming. They must be the friendliest people in the world and so appreciative of our visits. For us, there’s the knowledge that you’re helping people in need and, where else can you eat lobster that costs one T shirt?”

Other Riviera owners are most welcome, says Guy, recounting one particular incident, “particularly when they donate their wine to the auction and buy it back, donate it again and then realise they have no wine left, so they buy it back again for a much inflated price”.

“That kind of generosity goes a long way in the Louisiades. Ian and his crew were great.”

The organiser, Ecosustainability, is already planning for this year’s Rally, leaving mid September. “We’re hoping for 25 to 30 boats. The locals are getting ready and planning their own special events for us.”

Ian’s advice to powerboat owners tantalised by heat-hazed images of the unexplored tropics, is to make sure they register their boats with an international number, take plenty of trading goods and gifts, and travel before the cyclone season. “No later than the second week of November. The local people can tell by the water temperature when cyclonic conditions are headed their way.”

For his part, Ian is plotting a course for Tasmania, which he hopes to circumnavigate next year. “The west coast is just as wild as anywhere on the planet,” he says, adding that the 15,700 hours and 16,000 nautical miles he’s racked up on Investigator V have been “pure pleasure”.

More at http://www.louisiadesrally.com

If you are keen to get onboard the Louisiades Rally 2010, or even if you just want to donate money or goods, get in touch with Guy via louisiadesrally@ecosustainability.com The next expedition can take your donations to people for whom books and tools make a major difference in their quality of life.